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Learn the authentic Frenchy Cannoli hot bottle method for making temple ball hash. Master visual cues, proper techniques, and aging for premium results.

Written by Lorien Strydom
January 26th, 2026
Temple balls are dense, glossy spheres made from solventless trichome heads that have been heated, rolled, and cured for months to protect and evolve their flavor.
Unlike bubble hash, which is the raw material straight from extraction, temple balls represent the finished product after careful heat application, pressure, and aging.
This guide teaches you the authentic Frenchy Cannoli method with the visual cues and diagnostic techniques that other sources overlook, covering everything from selecting your starting material through the final curing process and consumption.
Temple balls are hand-rolled spheres of pressed trichome heads that have been heated, homogenized, and shaped specifically for long-term storage.
They differ fundamentally from bubble hash in that they've undergone transformation through heat and pressure, not just separation from plant material. The result is a dense, dark, glossy sphere that experienced users seek for its potent, uplifting, and long-lasting effects.
The dense outer shell serves a critical purpose beyond appearance. It protects the cannabinoids and terpenes inside from degradation for months or even years while complex chemistry continues in the low-oxygen environment at the core. This aging process is what distinguishes temple balls from standard concentrates.
It's important to understand early that temple balls are not full melt hash. They leave residue when heated, which means they're consumed mixed with flower in pipes, bongs, or dry herb vaporizers rather than dabbed. Setting this expectation now prevents disappointment later.
Frenchy Cannoli pioneered the modern approach to temple balls by blending traditional Moroccan hash-making techniques with contemporary ice water extraction methods.
His apprentice of eight years, Cherry Blossom Belle, continues advancing this craft through Heritage Hash Co., ensuring these artisanal methods remain accessible to dedicated makers.
The foundation of successful temple ball making is solventless loose resin, typically sourced from ice water extraction or exceptionally clean dry sift.
Plan to work with one to two ounces of material at minimum. Smaller amounts lose heat too quickly and become difficult to manipulate effectively.
Ice water extraction produces pure trichome heads separated from all plant material, which is essential for achieving the uniform homogenization that defines quality temple balls. The absence of contaminants allows the resin to melt and bind cleanly during the rolling process.
Your tool kit is straightforward but specific.
You need two glass bottles (wine bottles work well), a slow cooker filled with boiling water to keep those bottles hot, turkey oven bags or food-safe cellophane for wrapping, heat-resistant gloves, and oven mitts for handling hot glass.
The slow cooker maintains consistent bottle temperature throughout the process, which can take multiple rounds of heating and rolling.
The reason for two bottles becomes clear during execution.
While you're rolling with one, the other stays submerged in the slow cooker, staying hot and ready for the swap. This rotation keeps your heat source consistent without interruption.
Many people assume that any cannabis concentrate can be worked into a temple ball, but this is a costly mistake. Dab badders, moonrocks, and similar processed products contain added terpenes, cannabinoid isolates, or have undergone extraction processes that introduce elements incompatible with traditional temple ball making.
These additives and processing methods prevent proper homogenization.
Attempting to use these products as starting material results in a sticky mess that won't bind into a stable sphere. The resin needs to be pure trichome heads that can melt, merge, and solidify as a unified mass. Reformulated concentrates lack this fundamental property.
For hemp shoppers who own Mood's concentrates, it's worth noting that while these are excellent products for their intended purpose (dabbing and vaping), they're designed for consumption rather than further processing.
This isn't a limitation of the products but rather a recognition that temple ball making requires a specific type of raw material. Accepting this boundary up front saves both material and frustration.
The hot bottle method forms the heart of temple ball creation. Place your loose resin inside a folded turkey oven bag, creating a protected workspace. Position a glass bottle filled with boiling water on top and begin rolling with gentle, steady pressure, using your natural upper body weight rather than forcing downward.
The physics at work here are elegant. Gentle heat causes trichome heads to break open and release their oily resin. That released oil acts as a binding agent, fusing the mass together. Excessive pressure squeezes oil out of the material entirely, defeating the purpose.
Flip the flattened patty frequently to ensure even heating across all surfaces. After flipping, fold the patty over itself and roll again. This fold-and-roll sequence repeats many times throughout the process. Some batches achieve homogenization in three to four rounds, while others require ten to twenty, depending on the starting resin's quality, dryness, and trichome maturity.
Swap bottles every few minutes or whenever you notice the warmth fading from the glass you're using. Keep the second bottle submerged in your slow cooker at all times so it's immediately ready when needed. This rhythm of rolling, flipping, folding, and bottle-swapping becomes meditative once you find your flow.
Experienced makers sometimes incorporate Frenchy Cannoli's cannoli spiral technique. Once the resin reaches a pliable state, flatten it into a thin sheet, then roll it into a tight spiral like forming a cannoli before shaping the final sphere. This creates denser internal structure, though it's optional rather than required for beginners.
A rosin press can serve as an alternative heat source, applying consistent warmth with minimal pressure. The key word is minimal—you're using it as a heating element, not to extract rosin. Too much pressure again squeezes out the precious oils you need for binding.
This section addresses the uncertainty that stops most beginners from succeeding. Rather than counting folds or setting timers, you need to read what the resin is telling you through visual and tactile cues. Mastering these observations transforms temple ball making from guesswork into craft.
When you first begin rolling, the resin typically shows marbling—swirls of lighter and darker material throughout the patty. This is completely normal and not a sign of problems. As you continue working, that marbling gradually resolves into uniform dark color as the trichome heads melt and intermix.
Watch the edges of your patty carefully. As oils release and bind the material, the edges develop a wet sheen, almost appearing glossy. This shine indicates that melting and fusion are progressing. Meanwhile, the texture transforms from crumbly and prone to breaking into something taffy-like that holds together when you fold it.
When the entire patty shows consistent coloration without streaks or swirls, and the surface appears glossy rather than matte, you're approaching readiness. The material should feel cohesive and pliable, responding to pressure without cracking or falling apart.
For particularly stubborn resin that resists homogenizing, try the hot-water dip technique. Place your resin (still in its turkey bag) inside a zip-top bag for double protection. Submerge this package in the slow cooker water for fifteen to thirty seconds, then remove it and resume rolling immediately. This brief intense heat exposure can encourage reluctant trichome heads to release their oils. Keep the timing strict—longer soaks can lead to overheating.
You'll know your resin is ready for shaping when it displays consistent dark color throughout, maintains a glossy surface, and exhibits that taffy-like texture that holds together firmly when handled. These three indicators together signal that the trichome heads have melted sufficiently and bound the mass into a workable form.
Remove the resin from its plastic wrapping carefully. Roll it between your gloved palms with firm, steady pressure, allowing your hand heat to assist in the final cohesion. The motion is similar to rolling modeling clay into a sphere—continuous rotation with even pressure from all sides.
High-quality temple balls often display an interesting characteristic. When placed on a flat surface, premium resin may slowly relax from a perfect sphere into a slightly flattened, bulbous shape under its own weight. This is not a defect but rather an indicator of proper texture and density. If your ball maintains a rigid sphere or, conversely, flattens completely, it may need additional working or adjustment.
If you notice continued streaking, crumbly edges, or visible marbling at this stage, return the resin to its bag for more hot bottle work. Patience here prevents problems during the long curing phase ahead.
Curing separates temple balls from every other cannabis concentrate. Once you've formed your sphere, wrap it tightly in food-safe cellophane or a turkey oven bag to minimize oxygen exposure. Place this wrapped ball in a sealed mason jar and store it in a cool, dark location away from temperature fluctuations.
Now comes the hardest part: waiting. Three to six months represents the bare minimum for curing. Many artisans age their temple balls for years, and the results justify the patience.
Inside that oxygen-deprived core, fascinating chemistry unfolds. Cannabinoids and terpenes interact and recombine in ways that can't happen in the presence of oxygen. One notable transformation is the formation of hashishene, a rare terpene seldom found in other cannabis products. Hashishene contributes to that unmistakable classic hashy aroma and flavor that connoisseurs seek.
The aging process doesn't just preserve your hash—it actively improves it. Flavor profiles evolve and deepen over time, developing complexity that fresh concentrates lack. This evolution is the entire point of making temple balls rather than consuming bubble hash directly. Rushing the cure to sample your work early compromises the very qualities that make temple balls worth creating.
Wrap your temple ball tightly enough that no air pockets remain between the sphere and the wrapping material. A properly wrapped ball should feel completely enclosed with the wrapping material conforming to the shape. Choose a mason jar sized appropriately for your sphere—too much empty space in the jar isn't ideal, but the ball shouldn't touch the jar walls either.
Store your jar in a location with stable, cool temperatures. A basement, closet, or cupboard away from windows works well. Avoid anywhere that experiences temperature swings like garages or outdoor sheds.
It's fine to check on your temple ball occasionally, but frequent handling introduces oxygen and disrupts the curing process. If you're making multiple balls, consider labeling jars with the creation date so you can track aging without opening them repeatedly.
Remember that three to six months is when aging begins to show meaningful results, not when it's complete. Artisanal temple balls aged for a year or longer command premium prices and reverence for good reason. The chemistry needs time to work.
Kief can be worked into temple balls using the same hot bottle technique, but expect different results. Kief is less uniform than high-grade bubble hash because it includes varying particle sizes and potentially more plant material. These inconsistencies affect how the material responds to heat and pressure.
The same visual cues apply—you're still watching for marbling to resolve, wet sheen at the edges, and that taffy-like consistency. However, achieving these indicators typically requires more heat cycles, additional folds, and extended working time. Your finished ball may show less uniform coloration and slightly different texture compared to one made from six-star bubble hash.
This doesn't mean kief temple balls are inferior across the board, just different. The tradeoff is accessibility—kief is easier to collect than running ice water extractions. For someone working with what they have on hand, kief provides a viable entry point to temple ball making with the understanding that results will vary based on kief quality and particle consistency.
When marbling persists after multiple rounds of folding and rolling, it indicates the trichome heads haven't fully melted and intermixed. Continue working the material with a fresh hot bottle. Swap to a bottle that's been sitting in the slow cooker longer for maximum heat if needed.
Cracked edges typically signal either insufficient heat or underworking. The resin hasn't achieved enough pliability. Return to the hot bottle technique with attention to bottle temperature and work the material more thoroughly before attempting to shape again.
If you notice oil beading on the surface or oozing from the patty, you're applying too much pressure. Back off on how hard you're pressing. Remember, you want to warm and knead the resin, not squeeze it like extracting rosin. That gentle pressure preserves the oils within the material where they can serve as binding agents.
Resin that absolutely refuses to fuse after numerous attempts may benefit from the hot-water dip trick described earlier. The brief fifteen to thirty second submersion in the slow cooker water can provide the additional heat impulse needed to encourage stubborn trichome heads to release and bind.
These challenges are normal parts of learning to read your specific resin. Different cannabis varieties, growing conditions, extraction methods, and drying times all influence how material behaves. Mastery comes from processing multiple batches and developing feel for the cues.
Temple balls are not full melt hash, which means they're not suitable for dab rigs. Attempting to dab temple ball hash leaves significant residue and doesn't provide a clean vaporization. This isn't a flaw—it's simply how this style of hash behaves based on its composition and processing.
The proper consumption method is breaking off a small piece and mixing it thoroughly with ground flower in a pipe, bong, or dry herb vaporizer. The hash and flower burn together, with the flower providing structure and combustion assistance while the hash contributes concentrated cannabinoids and that distinctive aged flavor.
Start with a piece roughly the size of a grain of rice for your first session if you're unfamiliar with hash potency. Temple balls represent highly concentrated cannabis, and a little goes a long way. You can always add more in subsequent sessions once you understand how your particular ball affects you.
For readers who enjoy Mood's premium THCa flower, temple ball hash makes an excellent pairing. The federally compliant, lab-tested flower provides a reliable base for the concentrated hash, creating a combined experience greater than either component alone. Browse strains like Pluto or Dark Rainbow that complement hash's earthy, complex notes.
If you've discovered that temple ball making isn't the craft for you after reading this guide, Mood offers ready-to-use concentrates that deliver potent effects without the multi-month commitment. Products like THCa dab badders and moonrocks provide concentrated experiences that are ready to enjoy immediately.
The history of hashish stretches back centuries through regions like Nepal, India, and Afghanistan, where hand-rubbing techniques collected resin directly from living cannabis plants. These traditional methods involved forming the collected resin into small balls for storage and transport, creating products that could preserve potency and flavor far longer than loose flower.
Frenchy Cannoli modernized this ancient craft by applying traditional Moroccan hash-making wisdom to contemporary ice water extraction methods. This synthesis produced hash of unprecedented purity while honoring the techniques that had been refined over generations. His workshops and demonstrations spread these methods to enthusiasts worldwide.
Cherry Blossom Belle studied under Frenchy Cannoli for eight years, absorbing not just the technical methods but the philosophy behind them. Through Heritage Hash Co., she continues advancing temple ball artisanship, ensuring these techniques remain accessible and evolve with contemporary understanding. This lineage connects modern makers to centuries of hash tradition while pushing the craft forward.
Success with temple balls comes down to four essential elements: choosing the right starting material, reading the resin accurately during hot bottle work, shaping only when the cues confirm readiness, and allowing adequate time for curing. None of these steps can be rushed or substituted.
Trust the process and enjoy the craft itself. Temple ball making offers a meditative, hands-on connection to cannabis that modern extraction methods often lack. The fold-and-roll rhythm, the observation of subtle transformations, and the patience required for curing all contribute to a deeper appreciation for the final product.
For those ready to consume their finished temple ball, remember that high-quality THCa flower provides the perfect complement. Mood offers millions of users hemp-derived THC, which is 100% legal and fully compliant cannabis. You may have heard that the legality of hemp-derived THC is currently under attack, which could threaten the wellness of so many. Read here to learn how to join the fight, and help us keep hemp cannabis accessible to all for a long time to come.
The journey from loose bubble hash to aged temple ball spans months, but the result—a dense sphere holding evolved flavors and potent effects—justifies every moment of patience and attention. Welcome to the tradition.

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